Week Two: "Settling"

January 12, 2013- Today, I have been given the gift of lounging, writing, reading, napping, and eating at Mas and Edwige house all day. I sat out of the veranda listening to the fountain and the wind in the trees. It has been an absolutely relaxing and peaceful day. 

January 13 (Sunday)- This morning I woke up refreshed ready to begin my week. Michelle, a friend of Jenny from San Francisco, called me to find out where I was and if I would like to meet for lunch. Since I was staying at Edwige and Mas’ house I was much closer to her. She offered to come and pick me up that afternoon. I appreciatively agreed. That morning I was able to play with Waruna, their daughter, on the ipad. We designed my wedding dress, a cake, a cookie, and played a few games. She is a smart and clever 9 year old girl who I have enjoyed spending time with since we met in Cameroon in July.

Michelle arrived at the house and took me for a tour around the North-East side of Johannesburg. She agreed that I should move to Melville (near the University of Johannesburg, Auckland Park Campus). On the way, she stopped by a little area called 44 Stanley. There were galleries, restaurants, and live music being played in the outside dining area. We ran into some of her friends (one of which completed a Fulbright in Chicago). Next, she took me to 7^th Street in Melville where there were restaurants, bars, shops, and cafes…she compared the area to Haight Street in San Francisco. She took me to lunch and I had grilled fish (Hake) and Rooibos tea. We ate outside…which coming from winter was such a treat.

View from a hill in Melville

Next, we went to her ex-husband house to sort out school supplies for her two adorable boys (Kai and Dustin) who were to begin school on Monday. Michelle said if I move into Melville, I will be neighbors with her family, so that is good. Once again, the hospitality of the people I am meeting in South Africa is so comforting. 

That evening, Michelle and her boyfriend Edward took me to a movie at an independent movie theatre called Bioscope. We watched a movie about the West Indies Cricket team called “Fire in Babylon” (how fitting for me to learn a little about cricket). Did you know that “Test Cricket” take 5 days, and sometimes there isn’t even a winner! The movie documented the West Indies team who dominated the world of cricket by winning all of their Test Cricket games for 15 years (the longest standing undefeated team in sports) using the fast bowlers (equivalent to pitchers in baseball). The team was known for their fast and dangerous bowlers. Interesting flick. Michelle and Edward were even kind enough to drive me home that night, pointing out such things as, “If you ever see a street that looks like this in Johannesburg, just keep driving, do not stop.” As we made our way across town, each joked that they had NEVER been on the roads we were taking (evidently they were not hanging out in that Afrikaners neighborhood).

January 14, 2013- On Monday, Gadija picked me up and brought me to the office again. I worked on the professional development seminar and interview protocol I hope to use while I am here. I was also able to set up my office with a little more organization. After we finished at the office, she took me to the Auckland Park Kingsway campus for a short tour and to see some guesthouse near the university. 

UJ (APK) campus (view from the library)

On the way to the Soweto campus, Gadija drove me by Soccer City...where the World Cup was played and the FIFA offices are located. I said I would like to go to a game, she looked at me and said, "I prefer to watch games on tv...in my home." I guess I will need to find someone else to go to the game with me. 

My friend, Dave, who I know from living in Oakland messaged me to find out how I was coming along. He had done some work here in South Africa (and Tanzania I believe) and knew of some contacts for me. He sent out a message to one of his colleagues, Daniel. Daniel called and we arranged to meet for dinner (and by meet I mean he would come to Roodepoort to pick me up. He asked the same question everyone asks, “Why Roodepoort?”).

Dispenser in the Ladies Restroom at the university 

We went to a place called Montecasino. It is basically a Vegas-style casino with restaurants, entertainment, and shops. There is an Italian theme throughout. He is an engineer working with solar energy (Dave and his connection). He has a family in Israel (wife and 7 kids). He told me I needed to read the book, Cry, The Beloved County by Alan Paton because it truly represents South Africa. After doing some research, I realized Oprah had it as a book club book a while back. I downloaded the book onto my Kindle that night.

Here is a quote from the book I especially connected with. He is talking about the education of youth and the importance to teach beyond basic skills, rather teach them how to survive, serve, and be successful with their lives beyond their youth. 

“He would go back with a new and quickened interest in the school, not as a place where children learned to read and write and count only, but as a place where they must be prepared for life in any place to which they might go. Oh for education for his people, for schools up and down the land, where something might be built that would serve them when they went away to the towns, something that would take the place of tribal law and custom.”

January 15, 2013- Gadija was not going to the university today, so I too stayed home. I worked on finding a car and an apartment. Both of these being more difficult than a few clicks or calls. The apartment search seemed okay and I organized to see a guest house the next day. I also negotiated with a taxi company for a ride to the guest house and then home. We agreed on 400R.

The car situation…I emailed a place called “Rent-A-Wreck” and they seemed like the best price 3200R ($346)/month for a Ford Laser or Mazda 323, years ranging from 1990 to 2000. Or with a more reputable place I could at 5700R ($650) for a Toyota Yaris. Hmmm… I think I will keep looking. Oh, and because accidents and thefts are so common you have to put an extra deposit, which wouldn’t normally be a problem except the increased chance of losing my deposit. Taxi drivers (especially the mini-bus drivers) have a bad reputation for an aggressive, egotistical driving style. The people I have talked to told me to always give them the right-a-way.

Interesting bit with the car service for tomorrow, I have gotten 3 calls and 2 emails to confirm and renegotiate the price...this is getting frustrating. 

January 16, 2013- I am back to the office, working on my seminars and reading the information for Gadija’s course. I really enjoy creating courses! Organizing information, brainstorming interesting ways to present it, and collaborating with others is fun to me.

The car service called a few times again today trying to increase the agreed upon price. Why is it that the only problems I have encountered in traveling have been with taxi services? The driver called again to confirm the price and time. I arranged to wait for them at the gate of the University. I waited and waited, then called. The guy said it wasn’t enough money and that he was 30 minutes away (he was already 30 minutes late). He said he would come for 100R more. I said there was no need to come, I would not ride in a car with him. I went back to my office and called another taxi service recommended by the Embassy. I asked if they could take me to my 2 stops, they said, “Yes, it will be 400R.” They sent the driver to pick me up. His name is Mike. He is a local, has an electrical engineering degree, was raised by Afrikaners, and is trying to buy a house. He not only took me to my destinations but also took me to run errands after (bank and the grocery store) without charging extra. When I was at the party at Mas and Edwige’s house, the ladies told me if I didn’t have a car I need “a guy.” I laughed and they explained it was common for someone to adopt a driver to call when they needed a ride. Mike is now my “guy” until I get a car.

The Guesthouse I went to see had two rooms I could choose from. The first was in a cottage next to the Main House with three rooms with full bathrooms, a shared kitchen, and sitting area. Because I have been here for a minute I remembered to check the bars on the windows- the main window only had bars on half of the window. The next room was at a cottage across from the Main House, next to the pool, and within sight of the security officer’s room. I chose that room.

My room is just to the left of the pool.

Here is the kitchen/dining area for my "self-catering".

King Size bed...a bit large and slanted on each side, I almost have to sleep diagonally to keep from rolling off by morning. 

My cottage

January 17, 2013- Because things can never go too smoothly the Guesthouse email me and said the price for the room I chose was slightly higher and it wasn’t available until the 23^rd. I guess they didn’t hear the American accent in my emails. I confirmed I could still move into the other room on Saturday and I heard nothing. After a long day at work, my brain was tired and I just wanted to go home and eat…but I didn’t have much food, a car, or the energy to ask for a ride to get some so I made with what I could get at the market somewhat close to the house (Vienna Sausages to add to the French baguette, gouda cheese, onions, green peppers, and tomatoes from the garden). It was somewhat colorful, but not what I would prefer to eat. I tried to watch a movie, but I couldn’t figure out to get the sound to play. I tried to read but fell asleep…some days are just like that. Unfortunately, because I nodded off at 7:30pm, I was wide awake at 11:30pm. I guess my body is still adjusting.

January 18^th- After much drama of emails, phone calls, and organizing transportation to see different housing options, I have settled on a guesthouse in Melville (near the university). The location is a Bed and Breakfast, but also provides a self-catering option. My room/cottage is located across from the mainhouse, next to the pool. There is a French guy (from Alsace region) living next door who is a student at the university (Political Science Major).

My angels are everywhere...

January 19^th (Saturday)- Moving day. Gadija picked me up and escorted me to my new place because as she said she needed to make sure I am safe. She approved of the room, the security, and the arrangement. Today was rainy again, so unpacking was the perfect activity. Today was the first time I unpacked ALL of my clothing. When the rain let up, I was able to walk down to the store (being very aware of my surroundings!) to buy an adapter for my computer.

After unpacking, shopping, and settling in, my new friend, Daniel, picked me up to go to dinner near my new home. On his way to pick me up, he stopped at the robot (traffic light) getting off the freeway. A homeless person came up to the driver’s window to beg for change while another guy reached into the slightly open window and stole his iphone from inside the car. By the time he got to my place, his reaction went from shock to at least it was just a phone and this is a good reminder to more vigilant about safety.

We went to a place called the Lucky Bean, a Thai fusion restaurant. Then we walked down 7^th Street to hear some live music. There was a salsa band playing when we arrived, then moved into more African influences after a few songs.

Notice the security bar...

Things I have learned this week:

1.     Africa Cup: The Zambian team = reigning champs. Ivory Coast and Nigeria are very good, but Ethiopia is the Cinderella team- first time they have qualified in 31 years. Ethiopian plays Zambia on the 21^{st (Yohannes Assefa Haliermariam, 2013)}

2.     They use spark plugs to break windows at traffic lights (called robots) to smash and grab.

3.     How to look for security bars on windows.

4.     There are 3 types of outlets used in SA…but usually only one type of outlet in houses- so you have to buy adapters.

5.     The fire alarm at the university just goes off sometimes, so I was told not to be concerned (hmm, I am seeing a pattern here with fires).

6.     Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela lived on the same street in Soweto.

7.     You don’t pump your own gas (petrol) in South Africa…and you tip the guy who does and the guy who helps you park (by the way, he is sometimes standing between you and the car behind you while you are parking on a hill with a stick shift- dangerous!).

8.     Peru is similar to South Africa with “danger” however they are more clever and sneaky there. “They can take your underwear off without you noticing.” (Laura and Pat- you might want to note this for your trip.)

9.     39% is considered passing in South Africa.