Week Three- Ceremony, Celebration, and Schools

January 20^th-  It was raining quite hard (from my perspective, however, the locals said it wasn’t really much) and so the BBQ that I was invited to attend with Michelle and her family was moved to a clubhouse party at a condominium complex in Four Ways (named for the grid-like area with a four way stop).  Michelle, Kai, Dustin, and Edward picked me up and we made our way to party. There I met a woman named Lydia. She told me how she became a financial manger for South African Board of Jewish Education. She said that each step of her life, each class she took, and each class she taught brought her closer to the job she was meant to do. I enjoyed meeting her and hearing her story. She also told me about her daughter trying to bring solar energy streetlights to South Africa. Out of the few people I have met here, three have told me about solar energy.

January 21- Luneta came to pick me up at 7am so we could get across town with little traffic. One thing I have noticed is Johannesburg has a lot of traffic and it starts early. People take a lot of back roads as well, so they are full as well. Some say this problem could get worse if the toll take affect on the freeways. There is some controversy there. I guess they improved the infrastructure for the World Cup, the highways were built and renovated, and they added toll towers. Once the World Cup was over, the government began the process of activating these tolls. This led to a court case against the government and a lot of drama from the people of Johannesburg. A taxi driver told me that you have to register for a transponder and then they will charge you for the amount of time spent on the road. He said the tolls wouldn’t work because people (especially drivers) will refuse to get the transponders and the government will spend more money trying to track down the cars on the road. A colleague says although people have issues, eventually everyone will comply, the court case didn’t seem legitimate, and “big business” influences the government here. I am interested in seeing how this plays out (or if it even does while I am here).

Interestingly, when I looked up the issue online I found this Bloomberg article from last year (Robert Brand and Andres Martinez, February 2012):

South Africa will begin tolling road users in Johannesburg from April to help repay 20 billion rand of debt incurred in expanding highways in the nation’s most populous city.

The government will allocate South African National Roads Agency 5.8 billion rand ($727 million) to pay outstanding debt, helping to lower toll fees to 30 cents a kilometer, Finance Minister Pravin Gordhan told reporters in Cape Town today.

Sanral, as the agency is known, sold bonds in the past four years to finance the Gauteng Freeway Improvement Project the helped to widen, upgrade, resurface and build 185 kilometers of roads around Johannesburg. The tolling system, which was due to start in March, was postponed after labor unions threatened strike action. Taxis and public buses will be exempt from the fees.

“This is an extremely generous and balanced way in which government is responding to the various suggestions and concerns that are being raised,” Gordhan said. “It is a win-win solution for everyone involved.”

In March of 2012, there were mass marches against the toll. For now, they just seem to be part of the road. There are also the traffic enforcers, basically guys who sit in the median with radar guns calculating the speed of some cars and writing tickets (I am not sure how they go to the bathroom during the day). I will try to get a picture of one of the enforcers in the median of the freeway, but for now here is an example of one on the side of a smaller road. 

I attended the first Department of Childhood Education meeting and was formally introduced to the members of the department. I was reminded how often educators enjoy using acronyms for everything. I began to write them down for translation later.

After the meeting, Luneta and I met about the protocol we will be using to gather data about addressing the needs of diverse learners. I made a few changes to reflect the language used here in South Africa. We are now ready to begin collecting information as soon as I can schedule times to meet with different faculty members.

Michelle, Kai, and Dustin invited me over for dinner. Dustin and Kai attend the German school in Johannesburg. Kai (age 7) was struggling getting his homework done because he wants to know that everything was perfect. He read a poem about two friends and was asked to write their differences. He was frustrated that he couldn’t think of a better way of identifying the girls besides “one.” He wrote, “One has dark skin and one has light skin. One has black hair and one has light hair.” Michelle tried to encourage him to just write and his teacher would help him with the details later, but that didn’t seem to hurry him in any way. In Math, he wanted one of us to check each problem before he went on to the next. Although he finished his writing assignment, he did not finish his math homework before he needed to go to bed. Since I can barely get my high school students to bring in work from home, his few hours on his homework seemed a bit excessive. Are three pages of multiplication and division, a poem and one page write up, and a page of German homework too much for a 7 year old?

January 22- Today was the 1^st Year Welcome Ceremony at Auckland Park Kingsway (APK) campus. Most of the faculty from the School of Education met at the APK auditorium for a formal procession, words from the Dean, and introduction of the department heads. After our introductions, the faculty was excused but the students continued to hear about the expectations of their program. 

After the ceremony, Gadija and I went to the faculty tearoom to work on study guide for her English literacy class. The textbooks for the class include a book of African folklore and stories, Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets, and a textbook on Academic Literacy written by Judy Seligjmann (professor at UJ). I really appreciate how Gadija uses service learning to support the education of her students (there is around 180 students in her class). She is guiding her students in organizing a story telling festival with a famous author, her students organizing activities, and local schools getting involved. We brainstormed activities based on the African folklores that the groups in her class could do to get involved in the event: face painting, plays, multimedia (video tape and photography), registration and marketing, reading stories, arts and crafts, games, and background support. What an amazing opportunity for these future teachers, the community, and, of course, the kids!

Next, the department uses the Harry Potter series in their classes. I gave her an English lesson I have used in my Reading class. Students are asked to complete tasks related to 10 literary elements and devices based on a novel. Because her class is so large, I imagine the grading to be very overwhelming, partially because of the size and also because of the English Language issues. I told her about a useful technique I began using in my university class with master’s students who struggled with English and academic writing. I put them in groups and had them edit each other’s work prior to turning it into me. This greatly reduced the amount little grammatical errors and increased my students understanding of writing because they had others' work to guide them.

Finally, we looked at the Academic Literacy book and split up the topics and activities. Gadija and a few other faculty are going to the American Educational Research Association conference (in San Francisco) at the end of April so I will be teaching two classes on how to dissect a research journal article and academic writing (which my university students will tell you is “totally my thing”). By the way, SF people- I am putting together a guide for San Francisco, if you have any recommendations, let me know.

The Lovely Gadija and I at the
post-planning lunch (Catz Pyjama's)
in Melville.

After our planning session, she took me to a restaurant down the street from my place called the Catz Pyjama’s. We had the vegetarian sandwiches and they were EXCELLENT! The eggplant, pesto, acorn squash, and feta cheese on bread were so delicious. 

A friend of mine from San Francisco, Amy, connected me with her friend Niki here in Jo’burg. He came and picked me up to take me somewhere new- a neighborhood called Parkhurst. If Melville is like Upper Haight, then Parkhurst is like Union Street- full of restaurants and little shops. We went to a place called Espresso and enjoyed a bottle of local wine (a rose made with pinot noir grapes) and grilled Kingklip fish (white fish with mild flavor).

January 23, 2013- This morning was the 1^st Year Foundations I Orientation at the Soweto Campus. The faculty of the Department of Childhood Education faculty welcomed the first year students. Each person stood in front of about 140 students and gave short explanation of what they would teach and what the students could expect during the next four years while they worked on their Bachelor of Education (or B Ed as it was called). This was useful for the students and me…I got to hear about what they were to expect for the next four years.  

When it was my turn, I told the students that I came from the United States as a Fulbright Scholar to learn more about how South Africa works with students with diverse needs and so I could share some of my knowledge of learning and instruction with educators here. I asked if anyone knew what inclusion meant, they all nodded no (they are just about to begin their teaching education next week). I said, after apartheid ended the South African government decided that all students, regardless of race, money, or ability level, would get education, that it is a human right to have access. Because of this decision, youth who would not have had access to quality education before are now in their classrooms and that, as educators, it is necessary to learn about working with diverse learners to ensure they too received a quality education.

Dr. Luneta speaking to the First Year
Students

After the orientation, a colleague came to my office to tell me how much he appreciated my words to the students. He believes they were impressed that a professor from the United States knows about apartheid and has come here to teach them about working with diverse learners. He said he didn’t think many believe anyone in the world knows what is going on in their lives. That surprised me, could it be true that the students don’t know? Is it true that the world doesn’t know? Or is it that we don’t think about the world beyond our daily life (many of them are only 18 years old)?

That brings me to some of the racial issues I have noticed and that I am still trying to settle in my frame of mind. Now, as a disclaimer, I may change my perception as I spend more time here, but as of today this is how I have interpreted things that have been said to me. I will be cautious as I write, although unlike in America, these terms that group people do not seem to be seen as offensive, rather words to describe someone. As an American, I find myself flinching when these conversations are had.

Here, in South Africa, most people use the terms from apartheid- Afrikaan, White, Black, Colored, and Indian. Afrikaners (White people) are very proud of their heritage and language. Many of the faculty is Afrikaan, when they speak of being Afrikaan they do so with much pride in their heritage. A few of the professors have been working with me to learn some as well (good morning = goeie more). The Afrikaan language is easily spoken within the department and in the hallways to me as well a few times. It seems like people move from Afrikaan to English without noticing it. The students have to take a language class of either Zulu or Sesotho as well (taught by Afrikaners). One of the students at the orientation asked if they could take Afrikaan…she was told no, not unless she just wanted to take extra classes on top of her required workload.

The two main native languages I have encountered are isiZulu and Sesotho. In fact, at the teaching school connected with the university, Funda Ujabule, those are the two languages in which students learn (in addition to English). From what I hear, most of the local languages (Zulu, Soethe, Xhosa, Ndebele, Setswana, Swati, Tshivenda, and Xitsonga) can be understood by each other because they are just different dialects. The women who work at the guesthouse I live in speak Sesotho…one is from Zimbabwe and the other is South African (but her father came from Swaziland so she is still considered an immigrant at times).

There is also a big distinction from Black as in Black South African and people who have migrated here from another country. Some people blame the unemployment, the crime, and the downfall of certain neighborhoods to the immigrants, others say certain groups make them look bad by working so hard. It seems very similar to the talk in the U.S. about immigration during the political debates.

January 24^th- Because I noticed my sleep has been disrupted and I am feeling a bit tired (could be remnants of jet lag and moving), I decided to stay home from the office today. I took it easy in the morning, worked on my computer outside, read a bit, painted my nails by the pool, took a nap on the grass, and read some research. I remember reading somewhere that one way to “ground” your body is to literally connect with the earth (something about the negative ions alkalinize your body). I figured it couldn’t hurt and might allow me to bounce back from this lagging feeling in my body. I also found a Chinese healer down the street and made an appointment. I am glad to report the massage worked. I came back feeling rejuvenated.

View from under the tree...

Later that night, I went to Michelle’s and made her and the family dinner (I tried to make salmon, but the stores that were open didn’t have any so I ended up making trout- lesson learned: go to the fish monger earlier in the day).

That night I finally slept all through the night and since my office was being occupied at the campus, I elected to work from home again. What a beautiful day.

Home Office

January 26, 2013- Saturday: Today I am working in the morning, going to an event connected with Kai and Dustin’s (Michelle’s kids) school.

The event is called Croissants and Sauerkraut. This is a celebration of the Élysée –Treaty between France and Germany that was signed 50 years ago today. Here is the description from the Goethe Institut website (German Cultural Center):

On 22 January 1963, French President Charles de Gaulle and Germany’s first Chancellor Konrad Adenauer signed the so-called Élysée Treaty, a contract that set the seal on reconciliation between France and Germany and ended centuries of rivalry between them. With it, the two countries established a new foundation for relations and partnership.

In honour of the anniversary, the Goethe-Institut and the Alliance Française will host an event to recall the beginnings of the French-German friendship and to celebrate their union over the past 50 years. Starting with a welcome reception at the Alliance Française, the guests are invited to walk together from the French cultural center to the Goethe-Institut (less than one kilometre distance). At the Goethe-Institut, DJ Hannes Teichmann (Germany), VJ Alexandre Elkouby (France) and BLKJKS Soundsystem (South Africa) will entertain the guests with music from three nations – an evening of music, celebration and dance.

Me, Michelle, Edward, Kai, and Dustin
at French Alliance (with wine and "croissants")

Niki picked me up from the Goethe Insitut and took me to the Barnyard (in Four Ways). He told me that his friend’s mother from the town where he grew up (on the coast) was an actress. She decided to use the barn on their property to put on live shows…well, that idea has grown and now the Barnyard venues are all over South Africa (this one was in a strip mall in a suburb). Niki’s friend, Claire, organized a group of us to attend “The 80’s” show that was being performed. I was surprised at how much fun I had. A few times Claire came over to ask if we knew who was singing…yes, I love Pat Benetar!!!!

"Pat Benatar"

I also met a teacher from a model-C Afrikaan school in Johannesburg. Schools are categorized by how well they are functioning and depending on the “model” the families contribute more to the education. There are three types of schools (that I know about):  independent or private, public or government, and Model-C. Private schools may get some funding from the government, but usually just from businesses or overseas. They can screen their students to make sure they have “high performing students (and scores).” Oprah’s school is considered private…and there is an academic skills requirement to be enrolled. I read an article in the Sunday Times about how businesses are investing in for-profit schools. They have high tuition fees and state of the art classrooms.

The public or government schools are usually funded depending on the need that the government determines often based on the scores the students are receiving. They may have class sizes of 50-80, minimal teaching support, and their parents pay a scaled amount of tuition fees (some are given bursaries to cover the educational cost). Usually the schools that are considered “low-performing” are in the poorer areas, such as Soweto. Nadine (the woman who’s cottage I stayed in the first two weeks) told me Elizabeth, her maid, came to her last year because they were denying her children to enroll in the school because they said they were too full. Nadine had to advocate for Elizabeth to get her kids enrolled.

Finally, the Model-C schools are usually found in the nicer areas. They may receive minimal funding from the government, there is tuition paid by the parents, and with the additional funds they hire extra teachers and support staff. Penny, the teacher I met, teaches Math to a class size of 22-24. Sounds quite a bit different from the public schools. 

Week Two: "Settling"

January 12, 2013- Today, I have been given the gift of lounging, writing, reading, napping, and eating at Mas and Edwige house all day. I sat out of the veranda listening to the fountain and the wind in the trees. It has been an absolutely relaxing and peaceful day. 

January 13 (Sunday)- This morning I woke up refreshed ready to begin my week. Michelle, a friend of Jenny from San Francisco, called me to find out where I was and if I would like to meet for lunch. Since I was staying at Edwige and Mas’ house I was much closer to her. She offered to come and pick me up that afternoon. I appreciatively agreed. That morning I was able to play with Waruna, their daughter, on the ipad. We designed my wedding dress, a cake, a cookie, and played a few games. She is a smart and clever 9 year old girl who I have enjoyed spending time with since we met in Cameroon in July.

Michelle arrived at the house and took me for a tour around the North-East side of Johannesburg. She agreed that I should move to Melville (near the University of Johannesburg, Auckland Park Campus). On the way, she stopped by a little area called 44 Stanley. There were galleries, restaurants, and live music being played in the outside dining area. We ran into some of her friends (one of which completed a Fulbright in Chicago). Next, she took me to 7^th Street in Melville where there were restaurants, bars, shops, and cafes…she compared the area to Haight Street in San Francisco. She took me to lunch and I had grilled fish (Hake) and Rooibos tea. We ate outside…which coming from winter was such a treat.

View from a hill in Melville

Next, we went to her ex-husband house to sort out school supplies for her two adorable boys (Kai and Dustin) who were to begin school on Monday. Michelle said if I move into Melville, I will be neighbors with her family, so that is good. Once again, the hospitality of the people I am meeting in South Africa is so comforting. 

That evening, Michelle and her boyfriend Edward took me to a movie at an independent movie theatre called Bioscope. We watched a movie about the West Indies Cricket team called “Fire in Babylon” (how fitting for me to learn a little about cricket). Did you know that “Test Cricket” take 5 days, and sometimes there isn’t even a winner! The movie documented the West Indies team who dominated the world of cricket by winning all of their Test Cricket games for 15 years (the longest standing undefeated team in sports) using the fast bowlers (equivalent to pitchers in baseball). The team was known for their fast and dangerous bowlers. Interesting flick. Michelle and Edward were even kind enough to drive me home that night, pointing out such things as, “If you ever see a street that looks like this in Johannesburg, just keep driving, do not stop.” As we made our way across town, each joked that they had NEVER been on the roads we were taking (evidently they were not hanging out in that Afrikaners neighborhood).

January 14, 2013- On Monday, Gadija picked me up and brought me to the office again. I worked on the professional development seminar and interview protocol I hope to use while I am here. I was also able to set up my office with a little more organization. After we finished at the office, she took me to the Auckland Park Kingsway campus for a short tour and to see some guesthouse near the university. 

UJ (APK) campus (view from the library)

On the way to the Soweto campus, Gadija drove me by Soccer City...where the World Cup was played and the FIFA offices are located. I said I would like to go to a game, she looked at me and said, "I prefer to watch games on tv...in my home." I guess I will need to find someone else to go to the game with me. 

My friend, Dave, who I know from living in Oakland messaged me to find out how I was coming along. He had done some work here in South Africa (and Tanzania I believe) and knew of some contacts for me. He sent out a message to one of his colleagues, Daniel. Daniel called and we arranged to meet for dinner (and by meet I mean he would come to Roodepoort to pick me up. He asked the same question everyone asks, “Why Roodepoort?”).

Dispenser in the Ladies Restroom at the university 

We went to a place called Montecasino. It is basically a Vegas-style casino with restaurants, entertainment, and shops. There is an Italian theme throughout. He is an engineer working with solar energy (Dave and his connection). He has a family in Israel (wife and 7 kids). He told me I needed to read the book, Cry, The Beloved County by Alan Paton because it truly represents South Africa. After doing some research, I realized Oprah had it as a book club book a while back. I downloaded the book onto my Kindle that night.

Here is a quote from the book I especially connected with. He is talking about the education of youth and the importance to teach beyond basic skills, rather teach them how to survive, serve, and be successful with their lives beyond their youth. 

“He would go back with a new and quickened interest in the school, not as a place where children learned to read and write and count only, but as a place where they must be prepared for life in any place to which they might go. Oh for education for his people, for schools up and down the land, where something might be built that would serve them when they went away to the towns, something that would take the place of tribal law and custom.”

January 15, 2013- Gadija was not going to the university today, so I too stayed home. I worked on finding a car and an apartment. Both of these being more difficult than a few clicks or calls. The apartment search seemed okay and I organized to see a guest house the next day. I also negotiated with a taxi company for a ride to the guest house and then home. We agreed on 400R.

The car situation…I emailed a place called “Rent-A-Wreck” and they seemed like the best price 3200R ($346)/month for a Ford Laser or Mazda 323, years ranging from 1990 to 2000. Or with a more reputable place I could at 5700R ($650) for a Toyota Yaris. Hmmm… I think I will keep looking. Oh, and because accidents and thefts are so common you have to put an extra deposit, which wouldn’t normally be a problem except the increased chance of losing my deposit. Taxi drivers (especially the mini-bus drivers) have a bad reputation for an aggressive, egotistical driving style. The people I have talked to told me to always give them the right-a-way.

Interesting bit with the car service for tomorrow, I have gotten 3 calls and 2 emails to confirm and renegotiate the price...this is getting frustrating. 

January 16, 2013- I am back to the office, working on my seminars and reading the information for Gadija’s course. I really enjoy creating courses! Organizing information, brainstorming interesting ways to present it, and collaborating with others is fun to me.

The car service called a few times again today trying to increase the agreed upon price. Why is it that the only problems I have encountered in traveling have been with taxi services? The driver called again to confirm the price and time. I arranged to wait for them at the gate of the University. I waited and waited, then called. The guy said it wasn’t enough money and that he was 30 minutes away (he was already 30 minutes late). He said he would come for 100R more. I said there was no need to come, I would not ride in a car with him. I went back to my office and called another taxi service recommended by the Embassy. I asked if they could take me to my 2 stops, they said, “Yes, it will be 400R.” They sent the driver to pick me up. His name is Mike. He is a local, has an electrical engineering degree, was raised by Afrikaners, and is trying to buy a house. He not only took me to my destinations but also took me to run errands after (bank and the grocery store) without charging extra. When I was at the party at Mas and Edwige’s house, the ladies told me if I didn’t have a car I need “a guy.” I laughed and they explained it was common for someone to adopt a driver to call when they needed a ride. Mike is now my “guy” until I get a car.

The Guesthouse I went to see had two rooms I could choose from. The first was in a cottage next to the Main House with three rooms with full bathrooms, a shared kitchen, and sitting area. Because I have been here for a minute I remembered to check the bars on the windows- the main window only had bars on half of the window. The next room was at a cottage across from the Main House, next to the pool, and within sight of the security officer’s room. I chose that room.

My room is just to the left of the pool.

Here is the kitchen/dining area for my "self-catering".

King Size bed...a bit large and slanted on each side, I almost have to sleep diagonally to keep from rolling off by morning. 

My cottage

January 17, 2013- Because things can never go too smoothly the Guesthouse email me and said the price for the room I chose was slightly higher and it wasn’t available until the 23^rd. I guess they didn’t hear the American accent in my emails. I confirmed I could still move into the other room on Saturday and I heard nothing. After a long day at work, my brain was tired and I just wanted to go home and eat…but I didn’t have much food, a car, or the energy to ask for a ride to get some so I made with what I could get at the market somewhat close to the house (Vienna Sausages to add to the French baguette, gouda cheese, onions, green peppers, and tomatoes from the garden). It was somewhat colorful, but not what I would prefer to eat. I tried to watch a movie, but I couldn’t figure out to get the sound to play. I tried to read but fell asleep…some days are just like that. Unfortunately, because I nodded off at 7:30pm, I was wide awake at 11:30pm. I guess my body is still adjusting.

January 18^th- After much drama of emails, phone calls, and organizing transportation to see different housing options, I have settled on a guesthouse in Melville (near the university). The location is a Bed and Breakfast, but also provides a self-catering option. My room/cottage is located across from the mainhouse, next to the pool. There is a French guy (from Alsace region) living next door who is a student at the university (Political Science Major).

My angels are everywhere...

January 19^th (Saturday)- Moving day. Gadija picked me up and escorted me to my new place because as she said she needed to make sure I am safe. She approved of the room, the security, and the arrangement. Today was rainy again, so unpacking was the perfect activity. Today was the first time I unpacked ALL of my clothing. When the rain let up, I was able to walk down to the store (being very aware of my surroundings!) to buy an adapter for my computer.

After unpacking, shopping, and settling in, my new friend, Daniel, picked me up to go to dinner near my new home. On his way to pick me up, he stopped at the robot (traffic light) getting off the freeway. A homeless person came up to the driver’s window to beg for change while another guy reached into the slightly open window and stole his iphone from inside the car. By the time he got to my place, his reaction went from shock to at least it was just a phone and this is a good reminder to more vigilant about safety.

We went to a place called the Lucky Bean, a Thai fusion restaurant. Then we walked down 7^th Street to hear some live music. There was a salsa band playing when we arrived, then moved into more African influences after a few songs.

Notice the security bar...

Things I have learned this week:

1.     Africa Cup: The Zambian team = reigning champs. Ivory Coast and Nigeria are very good, but Ethiopia is the Cinderella team- first time they have qualified in 31 years. Ethiopian plays Zambia on the 21^{st (Yohannes Assefa Haliermariam, 2013)}

2.     They use spark plugs to break windows at traffic lights (called robots) to smash and grab.

3.     How to look for security bars on windows.

4.     There are 3 types of outlets used in SA…but usually only one type of outlet in houses- so you have to buy adapters.

5.     The fire alarm at the university just goes off sometimes, so I was told not to be concerned (hmm, I am seeing a pattern here with fires).

6.     Desmond Tutu and Nelson Mandela lived on the same street in Soweto.

7.     You don’t pump your own gas (petrol) in South Africa…and you tip the guy who does and the guy who helps you park (by the way, he is sometimes standing between you and the car behind you while you are parking on a hill with a stick shift- dangerous!).

8.     Peru is similar to South Africa with “danger” however they are more clever and sneaky there. “They can take your underwear off without you noticing.” (Laura and Pat- you might want to note this for your trip.)

9.     39% is considered passing in South Africa. 

Johannesburg- Week One "The Welcome"

Cascade Mountains as I was leaving Seattle, Washington

January 3^rd, 2013…I finally left the United States, one day late because my passport and visa didn’t get to me until an hour after my original flight had left.

January 4^th- After twenty-four hours, a stuffy 3-hour stop without ventilation in Dakar delayed longer because of electrical issues, and a spray with the insecticide, I arrived at the Johannesburg airport. Jacky, from the Embassy, greeted me at the airport and provided transportation to the Davinci Hotel in Sandton (a suburb north of Jo’Burg). I checked in to the five star hotel room, drew a bath, and then moved from the bath to the bed for the next 12 hours. My body wasn’t sure if it was day or night, so I watched TV in a fairly comatose state until it was time to go down for breakfast.

January 5^th- The hotel is connected to the upscale mall called Sandton City. Although I didn’t have the time or energy to really explore, I was able to get some errands taken care of before I checked out (adapter, locks, curling iron, hair dryer, cash, and cell phone set up- the basics). I checked out (the Embassy only paid for one night) and had the concierge organize transportation to my new home. He was able to talk the taxi driver down to 350 (from 450) Rand (equivalent of $40) to drive me to Roodepoort (another suburb further south). 

In this mall was also Nelson Mandela Square, an outside area with restaurants, a fountain, and the statue. People were coming to take a picture in front of Mandela.

Dr. Nadine Petersen, the owner of the cottage and also teaches at the UJ, welcomed me as I arrived at the Orange Blossom Cottage. I agreed to stay one week while I got myself settled because it was the recommendation given to me by the university.

The cottage is actually more like a mother-in-law apartment connected to the house. It has white gates on all the windows and doors, a main room when you walk in with a couch, a small table with two chairs, and some basic kitchen appliances (small refrigerator, microwave, electric pot for boiling water, an electric skillet, and dishes). Nadine stocked the cupboards and fridge with fruit, cereal, bread, meat, cheese, yogurt, milk, tea, and coffee. Just beyond the main room is the bedroom with a queen size bed, vanity dresser and two side tables, and off to the side is a full bathroom with a bathtub (hot commodity in my life). I unpacked, organized, and settled into the cottage and by 4:30pm I was struggling to stay awake. By 4:31pm I was passed out.

January 6^th- Sunday. Nadine’s father came to my door in the afternoon to see if I wanted to get some lunch and see part of the area. I appreciated him reaching out. He took me to a place called “Food Lover’s Market” to walk around and get some food. It was a regular grocery store in the front and a catering-style prepared food in the back. He told me I had to choose something I liked (how could I argue). I ended up with pineapple (it is a natural anti-inflammatory), roasted chicken, a Greek-style salad, and a bottle of South African white wine. When we got up to the front, he insisted on paying as a welcome to South Africa. Later, I asked him if it safe for me to go for a walk around the neighborhood (Wemmer Drive is a circle)…he said not without an escort. I think I was able to stay up until 5:15pm this day.

January 7^th- One of the effects of going to bed early is I wake up early as well. The birds are the first to make noise...there are one or two who squawk loudly outside my window beginning around 4am and then about 6am they settle down. Even after I dramatically opened the window, they were not phased. They remind me of the kamikaze rats in Pioneer Square Seattle who wouldn't budge if you met them on the sidewalk. The picture above shows my bedroom window, there is a tree on the other side of the brick wall and that is where they hang out in the a.m.. At least I go to bed early. The picture below may be one of the culprits, however, there are at least 3 different types of birds I have seen so far. Not to mention, when the birds quiet down, the dogs start in...

Nadine offered to take me to the mall today. I am noticing that malls are big deals here, after doing some reading I found out it is because they are safe (security and cameras). The malls (the two I have been to so far) are very similar to the USA or Europe, although there are grocery stores in there as well. Nadine showed me where the grocery store and a few other places to shop. We also got a chance to learn about each other. She teaches in the education department (and has been for quite some time). She recently moved from the Auckland Park campus to the Soweto campus and is currently on sabbatical. She has done a lot with service learning at the university level and will be attending AERA in San Francisco in April.

After I finished shopping, Nadine drove me back to the compound. I asked her about walking and she said it would be fine and told me about a few routes to take. She mentioned the Dunmar Security is the company she works with and to call them if I was at all suspicious or concerned. She also showed me the bars on the windows and doors and the extra locks on the doors. In addition to bars, locks, and security armed response teams, everyone has a large locked gate around their house.

That day I worked on my writing. I did venture off the property for a 30-minute walk to situate myself with the neighborhood, get some air, and to take a break from my computer. Once again, I did my best to stay up as late as possible, but when you wake up around 3am, it is hard to stay up past 7pm.

January 8^th (Tuesday)- Gadija (pronounced Hadija), my new best colleague, picked me up and took me to the campus for a tour and to meet with Dr. Kakoma Luneta (my sponsoring professor). Gadija is a doctoral student, in her 40s, she has a teenage daughter, and she supports and teaches about service learning and social justice. She and I got along right from the start. As we were driving into Soweto she was describing the area and the education system. There is a large hospital to the left when you first drive in, followed by two painted nuclear power cooling towers. Gadija tells me they have been cleaned up and now they have bungee jumping in between the towers. The UJ Soweto campus is across the street from the towers.

She showed me around the campus, introduced me to people, and then took me to the teaching school next to the campus. It is a bilingual elementary school, R-4 (R is Kindergarten). The School of Education has adopted this program as a teaching school. Credentialing students are able to observe and practice teaching at this site in preparation for their teaching careers.

I met with Luneta (what everyone calls him). He asked about my accommodations, I let him know it is expensive and remote and that it could be a problem without a car. He recommended I look for a place in Melville or near Auckland Park. We talked about my “program” while I am here. I was given the keys to my office. I am reminded of the little training general education teachers receive in their credentialing programs in the U.S., here it sounds much the same.  I will be doing a monthly lecture series on working with students with diverse needs (I hope the textbooks get here soon!). Because they speak so many languages (and learn in their home language as well), I think some of my material should be very much appreciated. 

After we left the campus, Gadija took me for lunch at a take-away fish place. We ordered and sat down. They actually brought our fish out on real dishes (ceramic not plastic). I ordered the Hake, which is the local fish.

January 9th. At 3am I woke up, at 4am the birds began their daily squawking outside my window. Eventually, I just got up and started writing. I spent the day with my computer writing, writing, writing.  I went for a short walk to the store and bought milk. There was “strip mall” with a butcher, mom and pop grocer, pharmacy (that sells Epsom salt), liquor store, and laundry service/hair salon. The woman who works in the pharmacy recognized I wasn’t from around there (I guess I stood out) and offered to do my hair. She gave me a flyer for the hair salon and laundry services. I thanked her and headed back to the compound.

I am definitely feeling a bit trapped without a car and living so far from everything. I have made a few contacts but just to meet up with them is over $50 taxi service. I believe I am safe here, but will I go crazy?

January 10^th- I went to my safety debriefing at the Embassy. A driver picked me up at 8am to drive me to the Embassy in Sandton. His name was David, he has 2 children, took one computer course, used to be a taxi driver (and mentioned he would over charge people like me), and he plans on taking another computer course and moving into the IT department at the State department. It was over an hour drive to get there because the traffic was so bad.

The debriefing took about 20 minutes. The security officer asked if I had been to any other African countries and I told him Ghana, Ethiopia, and Cameroon. He looked at me knowingly and said, “Oh, well this is a lot like Ethiopia, just more violent crimes, but you know what I am talking about. You just have to be on alert all the time and be prepared as possible.” Then he went through what to do in a mugging or smash and grab so as not to get killed. Of course, the regular recommendations like: don’t wear jewelry, keep doors locked, constantly scan surroundings, and have back ups of all of my documents. He went over transportation (no buses, trains, or taxis…but I could use one of the accepted drivers from the university or respected hotels).

With all the theft and accidents, I am not sure I want to be responsible for a car, but I also don’t want to be so isolated. I am currently training my brain to be more aware of driving on the left side, not to mention what it will be like using my left hand to shift gears. None of these things are impossible, just an adjustment.

Once I returned from the Embassy, Nadine offered to take me to the mall so I could get out of the house, I couldn’t think of a reason not to go, so I went. I walked around, browsed the stores, bought some groceries, and had lunch in the food court restaurant area. And then I came home…I tried to play a DVD, but I couldn’t get the sound to work. Interestingly, the DVD would not play in my laptop because it was registered to another country. I didn’t know they registered electronics.

January 11^th- Gadija picked me up and brought me to campus this morning. Nadine has decided to give me her office while she is on sabbatical (her office has a window that opens and a view of the water and painting- ie, the revamped nuclear power plant). The office is really nice and new (the school of education has only been at this site for 3 years so the building and furniture are still new). I worked on my travel grant proposal, organized my finances, and put together the proposal of how Luneta and I can collaborate this year. He mentioned publishing in a journal when we first began planning. I obtained IRB approval before I left but I hadn’t been able to go over the logistics of what we would write.

In our collaboration meeting, I presented the information and protocol I designed and we talked about how we could write together. Tentatively, we have decided to write an article about inclusive practices  (obviously). He will research Curriculum 2005 (South Africa’s take on the New Zealand curriculum that was supposed to be implemented here fully by 2006, but did not work) and what type of teaching occurs in credentialing programs. I will research White Paper #6 (Inclusive practices in South Africa) and best practices for meeting the diverse needs of students. Our current plan is to give a survey and short interviews to find out teachers’ experiences with students with special needs and what they are teaching in the classroom. We plan to collect data in Johannesburg (university and schools), Pretoria (schools), Durban (university and schools), Siyabuswa (rural university and school), and Cape Town (university and school). Interestingly, Siyabuswa is translated as, “They have conquered us.” As it was told to me, the Afrikaans told them they needed to come up with a name and they found one. Clever. 

The poster on the building says,
"Celebrating 100 years of  Selfless Struggle"
(view from my office)

Luneta has written me into some grants as well to help pay for the transportation and lodging while I visit the universities. I made sure to email him with a detailed description of what we planned to do so that we are both clear on our responsibilities over the next few weeks.

After Gadija and I left campus, she told me she would drive me to Sandton because she wanted to know I am safe (not at all close to Roodepoort and although it was a smooth drive there…traffic back home was unbelievable). My trip to Sandton was to meet with Franck’s aunt and uncle’s at their home for dinner. They live in a beautiful and very large home with their daughter. Maserame and Edwige also invited over a group of their friends so that I could be welcomed by interesting, intelligent, and kind people. We talked and laughed all night. Edwige cooked for us and the men made sure we were well taken care of. Each of the ladies came up with one activities for us to do together- book club, ladies weekend, brunch, dancing night…What a gift to meet such beautiful, generous, and successful people! All in all a wonderful week in Johannesburg.